Do-it-yourself chemical peels have become popular during the pandemic, as people search for cheaper and more convenient alternatives to clinics. By IAN CHOI.
Ms Ruth Grace Gamboa Gomez, 20, maintains a skincare routine to stay picture-ready. Like millions around the world, she gets product recommendations from social media and has tried many Do-It-Yourself (DIY) chemical peels.
“I think it’s fun because if you peel it off, it feels so satisfying,” says Ms Ruth who uses a chemical mask every week.
Although Ms Ruth believes chemical peels work for her, others are not so fortunate.
According to an article from BuzzFeed, one woman developed painful and unsightly bumps and blisters after using an often-used product promoted by other TikTok users.
Chemical peels, with properties of Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids (AHAs) or Beta-Hydroxy-Acids (BHAs), exfoliate the skin by removing a layer of skin cells. According to Medical News Today, it helps with lightening scars, pigmentation and other skin ailments. Ms Ruth is aware of the harmful effects. She elaborates that if the chemicals are inhaled or have contact with the eyes, it can result in chemical burns.
According to Mayo Clinic, risks associated include infections, burns, changing of skin colour and scarring. Fortunately, in Singapore, the Singapore Health Sciences Authority regulates exfoliating products according to the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive. Products with up to 10 per cent concentration of acids can be used by consumers. However, higher levels can only be used by a certified aesthetician or a qualified medical practitioner, says Dr Ho.
High concentrations can induce heart, kidney, and liver damage, as reported by Mayo Clinic.
Dr Rachel Ho, an aesthetic doctor of La Clinic, says that safety is a concern when using DIY at-home chemical treatments. She explains that burns may occur at any concentration of acids, especially for consumers with pre-existing conditions, like eczema and psoriasis, that already indicate a damaged skin barrier.
She elaborates that the effects of any chemical peel is determined by its concentration. Although it may be cost effective as it can be done at home, usually, no clear instructions are given on proper usage and mitigating accidents when it does not go according to plan.
However, Dr Ho acknowledges the need for such treatments. “I recognise that when it was the circuit breaker, a lot of people [couldn’t] go to the clinic [as it was a] non-essential service. They [tried] to improvise at home.”
Ms Sri Nor Wakhidatun Nazila, 20, agrees that DIY chemical peels work for her. However, she would not do it again.
“The word ‘chemical’ already scares me and with someone that has sensitive skin,” says Ms Nazila.
She added, “You really need to be careful with what type of chemical peel you’re using [because] everyone’s skin is different.”
Dr Ho recommends another form of exfoliation at home: mechanical exfoliation. Dr Ho has tried and recommends the Foreo UFO. “They [use] sonic pulsation to dislodge the dirt in your pores, all that gunk and excess oil instead of using acids,” says Dr Ho. She added that she has tried a few sonic cleansers herself and agrees that manual exfoliators are generally safe.
For people who have sensitive skin, they may consider the use of a novel chemical exfoliator, Poly-Hydroxy-Acids (PHAs). Dr Ho explains that PHAs are derived from AHAs which have similar functions. “They are less commonly used because they are very mild,” she says. She adds that PHAs are so gentle that doctors do not consider them useful as treatments in the clinic. Dr Ho cautions consumers to lower their expectations when using PHAs and acids at low concentrations as results are slower.
With the advent of DIY beauty trends gaining traction, as well as the rise of imitation products, Dr Ho recommends for consumers to do their own research into the products and the credibility of the sources and influencers, as well as go into the trends with an open mind.
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